Formulation and Evaluation of Herbal Lipstick using Bixa orellana and Beta vulgaris
Ch. Rajeswari, M. Tulja Bhavani*, Ch. Harshitha*, Kotte Sai Praneeth, V. Sai Teja, S. Apoorva.
G. Pulla Reddy College of Pharmacy, Mehdipatnam, Pillar No.: 23, Door No:12-2-823/1/1, Telangana, 500028.
*Corresponding Author E-mail: gprcphyd@gmail.com
Abstract:
This study presents the formulation and evaluation of a herbal lipstick incorporating natural coloring agents Bixa Orellana (annatto) and Beta vulgaris (beetroot). The primary objective was to create a lipstick that combines aesthetic appeal with functional benefits, using natural ingredients to ensure safety and environmental sustainability. In General the lipsticks use the colour extracted from Cochinea insects and it can be considered as animal harm and not skin friendly. The formulation process involved the careful selection of waxes, oils, and pigments to achieve the desired texture, color, and stability. The resultant lipstick was subjected to a series of rigorous evaluations to ensure quality and performance. Primarily, the pH test was conducted to ensure the lipstick's compatibility with the natural pH of the skin, resulting in an optimal pH level that avoids skin irritation. The melting point test confirmed the product's stability across various temperature ranges, ensuring that it remains solid in typical environmental conditions. The force of application test measured the pressure required to apply the lipstick smoothly, indicating a user-friendly formulation. Microbiological testing was performed to ensure the product is free from harmful microorganisms, confirming its safety for consumer use. Additionally, a skin irritation test was conducted with human volunteers, demonstrating that the lipstick does not cause adverse skin reactions. The oil rancidity test was performed to assess the stability of the oils used in the formulation, ensuring that the product remains fresh and effective over time without developing off-odors. All tests yielded results within the acceptable reference ranges, validating the formulation's success. This study contributes to the development of safe, natural cosmetic products, offering a sustainable alternative to conventional lipsticks that often contain synthetic ingredients.
KEYWORDS: Herbal Lipstick, Cosmetics, Bixin, Beta Vulgaris, Waxes, oils.
1. INTRODUCTION:
The practise of applying colour to cheeks and lips is very old. In ancient times, natural materials use it to be applied The Greeks use it to colour their cheeks and lips with a root called Polderos. Piesse of France described a liquid range of ammonia and Carmine in 1917.
Lipsticks having base of waxes and oil came into limited use before World War I. The dye which was used in the preparations was Carmine. A (dye extracted from the insect Cochinea. This insect produces much less intense colour than red pigments used. Now zinc oxide was sometimes used to give brighter colour Early in edible lipsticks were made by adding water soluble colour besides Carmine.Lips were required to be moistened before applying these products. Phenomenal popularity in using lipsticks was witnessed by the introduction of inedible colour and wax oil based lipsticks. Lipstick is used to make appearance of lips attractive by imparting colour. Narrow lips can be made to appear wider by applying lipstick above the upper line and broad sensual lips can be made to appear narrower by applying lipstick well within the natural lip line.Lips are considered more alluring when they are slightly moist. This appearance is achieved by means of greasy, which has an emollient action. Originally efforts are made to give a bright red colour to lips.1
But now a variety shades are used, Lipstick is composed of colouring materials dispersed in blend of oils and waxes. The blend of oils and waxes is adjacent to design melting point and viscosity Through the body temperature varies between 36℃ to 38℃. But the product is expected to withstand hot climate, therefore lipstick must have a melting point, a pressure up to 55℃ to 75℃10
1.1 Ideal properties:
· You should miss smooth and easy to apply, leaving a thin film on the lips.
· It should have a good degree of in edibility.
· It should have a high retention of colour intensity.
· It should be free from grittiness, and should be non dry.
· You should have required plasticity.
· It should not lose its smooth and shiny appearance during storage.
· It should remain free from blossom or sweating during storage.
· It should remain firm and stiff within reasonable variation of climatic temperature and conditions.
· It should have a pleasant Odour and flavour.1
1.2 Pigment Descriptions:
INGREDIENTS AND ITS USES:
(i) ANNATTO:
Synonym: lipstick pods, Kumkum, achiote.
Biological source: this consists of dried seeds of plant Bixa Orellana.
Family: Bixaceae.
Organoleptic characters: colour – brick red.
odour – slightly sweet and peppery.
taste – hotness scale 1 to 2.
size – 3 to 5mm diameter.
shape – triangular. 15
Chemical constituents:
Annatto seeds are covered with aril and contains bixin dye. Annatto seeds are found to contain about 12% of oleo resin which is 50% volatile oil covers only 0.3- 0.8% while pigment covers 4.5 percent.
The main constituent of pigment is known as bixin - 70%.
Uses:
· It is a Antioxidant and protect against UV.
· It has liver protective properties.
· Annatto is used as colouring agents for foods, cosmetics, alcoholic beverages[2].
· Sustains pregnancy.14
(ii) Beta vulgaris:
Synonym : Beetroot, sugar-beet
Source: It is swollen root, dark red- purple colour obtained from a root called Beta vulgaris.
Family: Amaranthaceae.
Chemical constituents:
beetroot gives a distinctive colour due to the present of nitrogen containing water soluble pigments betalains. 12
It is widely used as a natural food colorant and labeled as E- 162 contains a rich source of vitamins, Vitamin- C, Vitamin – B6, folic acid and dietary fiber, high Antioxidant.
Uses:
· Food coloring agent.
· Anti – oxidant.
· Helps in healing skin cracks.
· Anti Diabetic Properties.13
· Hepatoprotective agent3.
2. MATERIALS AND METHODS:
2.1 Ingredients and formula:
1. Bixa orellana:4
Table 1.
|
S.no |
Ingredients |
Formulation(gm) |
Uses |
|
1 |
Bees wax |
1.08 |
GLOSSY and HARDNESS AGENT |
|
2 |
Carnuba wax |
0.36 |
HARDNESS |
|
3 |
White soft paraffin |
1.32 |
GLOSSY and HARDNESS AGENT |
|
4 |
Castor oil |
0.24 |
BLENDING AGENT |
|
5 |
Coco powder |
0.24 |
FLAVOURING AGENT |
|
6 |
Sodium Chloride |
Q.S |
PRESERVATIVE |
|
7 |
Bixin |
0.5 |
COLOURING AGENT |
2. Beta vulgaris and Bixa orellana:5
Table 2.
|
S.no |
Ingredients |
Formulation(gm) |
Uses |
|
1 |
Bees wax |
1.08 |
GLOSSY and HARDNESS AGENT |
|
2 |
Carnuba wax |
0.36 |
HARDNESS |
|
3 |
White soft paraffin |
1.32 |
GLOSSY and HARDNESS AGENT |
|
4 |
Castor oil |
0.24 |
BLENDING AGENT |
|
5 |
Coco powder |
0.24 |
FLAVOURING AGENT |
|
6 |
Sodium Chloride |
Q.S |
PRESERVATIVE |
|
7 |
Bixin + BetaVulgaris powder |
0.2+0.2 |
COLOURING AGENT |
2.2 Pigment Extraction Process:
A. Preparation of Annatto Extract :(Oil Soluble Bixin)
· Annatto seeds, immersed in vegetable oil at a temperature not exceeding 70 C.
· Seeds are mechanically abraded to remove the pericarp from the waste seed by a process know as raspelling.
· The slurry of the pigment in oil is heated under vacuum at a temperature 130C.
· The solution is filtered to remove insoluble materials. The major carotenoids include trans-bixin, a Red coloured Thick Liquid is extracted after the filtration. 6
Figure 1. Figure 2.
B. Preparation of Beta vulgaris extract:
· Red beet has been taken and peeled neatly and washed.
· Beetroot is cut into small pieces and dry them in sun shade (shade drying, sunlight will diminish color, fragrance, and flavor) at-least 48 hours and completely free from moisture.
· Powder them completely using mixer (or) motor and pestle.
· Powder should be very fine, this powder is subjected to sieving with sieve number:44 mesh.
· Take fine powder as pigment material.17
2.3 Lipstick Formulation Procedure:
· All the waxes and oils are weighed in separate beakers and subjected to heating.
· Beeswax and carnuba wax melted in a beaker at 70℃ on water-bath with decreasing order of their melting point.
· Similarly white soft paraffin and castor oil were taken in another beaker and melted at 70℃ on a water-bath.
· Colored pigment was added to oil phase until homogeneous mixture was obtained. Then it was added to the wax phase at the same temperature.
· The mixture was cooled at 40℃ and vanilla essence was added.
· The molten mixture was poured into lipstick mould and Tap the mould on the counter slowly for a few times so that melted wax is completely distributed in the mould and not causing any improper moulding and allow the lipstick to cool and harden completely. We can place it in the refrigerator and complete the wax hardening process.
· Upon solidification it was separated from the mould and fitted in the lipstick case. Next The formulated lipstick is subjected to Evaluation tests.4
Figure 3. Figure 4.
3. Evaluation Parameters:
When evaluating herbal lipstick, it’s essential to consider various factors to assess its quality and effectiveness.
3.1. MELTING POINT DETERMINATION TEST:
Prepare the sample: cut a small piece of the herbal lipstick for testing.
Apparatus: use a setup with a thermometer and a heating source the appear the sample into a capillary it in the melting point apparatus.
Initial temperature and record the initial temperature.
Observation: observe the sample as it heats up when the solid sample completely liquid.
Record the melting the temperature at which the sample melts completely of the lipstick
Repeat: it’s good the test to ensure accuracy you can determine the melting point accurately.[7]
RESULTS:
· Bixin – 50℃.
· Bixin + Beta vulgaris – 51℃.
3.2. MICROBIOLOGY TEST:
Preparation of Media:
Common media used for microbiology testing include nutrient agar. The nutrient Media is prepared by using ingredients: Agar-Agar, Pep-tones powder, beef extract, Pure form of Na Cl and Distilled water respectively.16
Inoculation: Using a sterile swab or loop, inoculate the sample onto the agar plates. Streak the sample evenly to allow for the growth of any present microorganisms.
Incubation: Incubate the agar plates at the appropriate temperature for 24-48 hours to allow the microorganisms to grow.
Observation: After the incubation period, examine the agar plates for the presence of microbial growth. Different types of microorganisms may appear as number of colonies of varying shapes, sizes, and colors.
RESULT:
There are no traces for Microbial or fungal growth on the Agar plates so the Lipstick is completely Microbe free.7
3.3. SKIN IRRITATION TEST:
Lipstick is applied on the skin for 10min and after 10 minutes the skin is checked for any skin allergic reaction (or) Redness or rashes on the skin.
Result:No Redness or rashes are found and the final product is completely skin friendly.
3.4. pH:
Preparation of Samples: Take a small amount of the herbal lipstick sample.
Calibration of pH Meter:
Calibrate the pH meter according to the manufacturer's instructions to ensure accurate readings.
Measure pH:
Apply a small amount of the herbal lipstick onto a clean surface and then place the pH meter into the product to measure the pH . Make sure the probe is fully immersed in the lipstick to get an accurate reading.
Record the pH:
Note down the pH reading displayed on the pH meter. The pH of lipstick typically falls within a specific range, around 4.5 to 7.5, to ensure it is suitable for use on the lips.[7]
RESULTS:
Bixin: 6.0
Bixin + BetaVulgaris: 6.01.
3.5. AGING STABILITY:
Ageing stability may be determined by storing the lipsticks in oven at 40℃And by making periodic observations of:
· oil bleed,
· crystallization of wax on surface,
· application characteristics.
Perfume stability can also be accessed by storing lipsticks in oven at 40 degree and by making periodic comparison of perfume with fresh lipsticks.1
Observation:
Day 1:
· No Oil bleed.
· No crystals were Observed on the wax surface.
· Application Characteristics were good.
Day 2:
· No Oil bleed.
· Very minimal cracks were observed on the tip of Bixin Lipstick and combination was good.
· Application characteristics were good.
Day 3:
· No Oil Bleed.
· Fragments are observed on the Bixin surface.
· Application Characteristic were Normal.[11]
Day 4:
· No Oil bleed.
· Fragments are Observed on the Bixin surface.
· Application Characteristics were Normal.
Day 5:
· No oil Bleed.
· Fragments are Observed on Bixin+BetaVulgaris Lipstick too and wax became oily on both lipstick.
· Application Characteristics were Normal.
Day 6:
· No oil bleed.
· Wax surface on both Lipsticks is slightly soft and Pasty.
· Texture characters of Bixin+ Beta vulgaris was good but Bixin very minimal Fragmentation was observed.
Day 7:
· No oil Bleed.
· Slight precipitation of water and the wax is pasty and soft.
· Texture characteristics were good.9
3.6. SPREADABILITY TEST:
Sample Preparation:
Start by selecting a sample of the herbal lipstick that you want to test for spread-ability.
Procedure:
· Apply a small amount of the lipstick to the back of your hand or a clean surface.
· Use a clean finger or a spatula to spread the lipstick across the surface.
· Observe how easily the lipstick spreads and the coverage it provides.
Texture Assessment:
Pay attention to the texture of the lipstick during spreading. Note if it feels smooth, creamy, or if it drags or clumps.
Observation:
Evaluate the ease of spreading, uniformity of coverage, and any issues like uneven application or patchiness.8
Figure 5.
Table 3
|
S. No |
Evaluation Parameters |
Bixin lipstick |
Bixin+BetaVulgaris |
|
1] |
Melting Point |
50℃ |
51℃ |
|
2] |
Microbiology Test |
No Growth |
No Growth |
|
3] |
Skin Test |
No Redness |
No Redness |
|
4] |
pH |
6.0 |
6.01 |
|
5] |
Ageing Stability |
Changes Observed After Day 4. |
Changes Observed After Day 4. |
|
6] |
Spread ability |
Smooth |
Smooth |
4. SUMMARY AND CONCLUSION:
This document concludes the formulation and evaluation of herbal lipsticks using natural colorants derived from Bixa Orellana (annatto) and Beta vulgaris (beetroot). The study aims to create a safe, sustainable, and aesthetically pleasing lipstick alternative to conventional products that often use synthetic ingredients and animal-derived dyes.
The formulation process involved selecting waxes, oils, and pigments to achieve the desired texture, color, and stability. The lipsticks underwent various tests to ensure quality and performance. The pH test ensured skin compatibility, the melting point test confirmed stability across temperatures, and the force of application test assessed easy to use. Microbiological testing ensured the absence of harmful microorganisms, and skin irritation showed no adverse reactions. The oil rancidity test confirmed the product's freshness and effectiveness over time.
The document includes a comprehensive list of tables and figures detailing the formulation, extraction process, and evaluation results. It provides a detailed account of the materials and methods used, including the extraction of annatto and beetroot pigments, the formulation procedure for the lipsticks, and the evaluation parameters such as melting point, microbiology, skin irritation, pH, aging stability, and spread-ability.
The study concludes that the formulated herbal lipsticks are safe, natural, and effective, contributing to the development of sustainable cosmetic products. The results of all tests were within acceptable ranges, validating the success of the formulation. The document serves as a guide for the use of herbal ingredients in lipstick preparation, offering a non-toxic and environmentally friendly alternative to traditional lipsticks.
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Received on 29.06.2024 Revised on 02.08.2024 Accepted on 04.09.2024 Published on 14.12.2024 Available online on December 05, 2024 Research J. Science and Tech. 2024; 16(4):291-298. DOI: 10.52711/2349-2988.2024.00041 ©A and V Publications All right reserved
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